Sidebar: A taste of America

Soon after we set off for Awassa, a six-hour drive, Kate brought out a bag of homemade chocolate chip cookies and brownies. Throughout the day we raided the bag, and what wasn't eaten was smashed to crumbs as the bag bounced around in the back of the truck with our luggage.

So on the return trip, Spence and I pulled out our snack bag. We passed the bag up to Sisay and Asserat, who sampled -- and made judgments on -- ALL of our American treats. Beef jerky: boo! Trail mix: I don't think so. Reese's snackster 100-calorie pack: not bad. Rice Krispie treats: now that's good!

It was hilarious watching these tough Ethiopian guys digging through the treat bag, turning up their noses at this and that, and finally finding something they liked.

This is Asserat, our driver. He was an expert in dodging goats and donkeys, weaving between cows, and zipping around slow-moving cars and buses even in the face of oncoming traffic. And nope, he's never been to California.